Here's some helpful information to help with planning your new home and build.
A timeline to give you an idea on how fast a QuickBuild Home generally takes to Shell Build, lockup stage.
This timeline is based on the QuickBuild Shell build service:
Set out & dig the pile holes.
Building Inspection early morning. Assemble bearers & piles.
Pour concrete in the morning. Put the fully insulated floor down in the afternoon.
Floor Fixings
Fix the skirtings to the floor. Layout the wall panels.
Put the external walls up.
Put the internal walls up (This may take an extra day if you haven't sorted through all the panels yet!)
Put the windows in, the living room beam, & the essential roof trims.
Put the roof on. (Yes - the roof goes on in only a day!)
Finish at your own leisure. By this stage your build will be to secure lockup stage, you can finish the interior fit out at your own leisure.
For delivery we only require 1m access - if you can walk there we can (probably) deliver.
Most modular and transportable homes simply can’t get to a back garden, or down a restricted driveway.
QuickBuild Homes can be put anywhere there is a 1m wide accessway. (Make use of that large back garden!)
QuickBuild Homes are suitable for:
You can find out more about what BRANZ Zone your property is in here.
QuickBuild Homes can be delivered to all different sites - Check with us about your site!
We can supply alternate foundation details for sloping sites (extra costs may vary)
Check all of the above with your Council first.
Also, ask your council about any existing services that may cross your proposed positioning (They won’t let you build over main drains that serve an entire road, or gas lines etc).
As always, if you have any questions, feel free to contact us.
Consider these so you don't get into trouble.
Our how-to guide.
There are two sorts of consent and you will need at least Building consent, and you may need Resource consent
This is needed if your proposed new house does not comply with the local council District Plan.
We highly recommend that you speak to your council to verify if your house needs resource consent. Ask to see a "Planner". If we have sent you an initial site plan, take this to the Planner.
Many councils have "permitted activities" - such as Minor Dwellings. These permitted activities vary from council to council, so in one council a maximum second house size may be 60sqm, but in another it may be 80sqm
They will also check such things a distances to boundaries, vehicular movements, section size, etc.
If your proposed new house DOES comply with the District plan, then it probably will NOT need Resource Consent. But check with council first.
What ever council says to you, GET IT IN WRITING.
Resource consent can take a long time if not straightforward, and in our experience can vary incredibly from council to council. Some councils are very good. Others will want you to specify where the washing line and rubbish bins go so be prepared and be patient!
EVERY COUNCIL IN NEW ZEALAND ACCEPTS MULTIPROOF DESIGNS
Although our houses have pre-approved, national building consent, you will still need consent for the position, orientation of the house, location of services, driveways / parking.
Every building in NZ with any plumbing in it requires building consent by law. There are no "grey areas" there is no varience from region to region. If it has plumbing, you need consent. Homes on wheels, below a certain size, or on skids are not exempt.
The plans for the council are ALWAYS supplied as "AS PLAN" as that is how the Multiproof system works. We will provide you with a MIRROR plan for your site plans if you want a MIRROR plan.
The role of Building Consent Authorities is to:
The Council has only 10 working days to issue a MultiProof Building Consent, based on information from the Ministry of Business Innovation and Employment website.
Plans and specifications are already lodged with the Ministry of Business, Employment and Innovation, so your council will access those plans online. We will send you a full set upon payment of deposit. Minimal delays from council with RFI’s (Requests for Further Information) for the house.
Most councils have different forms.
Some councils are grouping together to unify building consent application formats. Ask us if we already have a suitable consent - If we do, we’ll pass you a copy free of charge.
Check out simpli.govt.nz for councils that use a shared format.
You can download PDF forms with Building consent applications from your local council.
Some councils require you to submit 2 printed copies, others you can submit by email, and some others allow electronic submission via their website.
Water can come from the road - council supply - usually in a 20mm MDPE blue pipe. You may have to pay council a connection fee.
Water can also come from storm water tanks - either concrete of plastic - your choice. But council will also want a soak pit or other way of dealing with the overflow (such as a bubble up to road kerb, or connection to a council storm water drain. Contact your council for further information.
Water from the roof will go to one of the following:
a) drains in the road
b) the road kerb
c) soak pits
d) water tanks with overflow to soak pits, or storm-water drains or road kerb.
Foul water, or sewage from toilets, baths etc will usually go to the council drains in the road. Contact council for location of drains, depth and connection costs. This is usually cheaper than septic tanks
Drains can also go to your own septic tanks. Contact a local Septic Tank designer & supplier.
You will generally need two site plans:
1) Existing Plan showing:
Boundaries
Existing services
Existing buildings
Any other features of note that me be relevant - such as slopes and levels.
2) Proposed Plan showing:
Boundaries
Position of new house
Dimensions to boundaries
Services routes - This will include where the services connect to existing services. Drains will need to show gradient, (typically 1:80), pipe size (typically 100mm), Access points (at a change of direction) Rainwater is generally at 1;100 gradient, and can be in 80mm pipe. Often rainwater will go to a “Bubble up chamber” by the road so the water can get to the kerb. Different council have different rules regarding Bubble up chambers” If you need a “Soak Pit”, then consult your local drain-layer for a suitable design. The council will tell you if anything else is required.
New levels / slopes, driveway & parking, North Arrow, Scale.
Areas of the existing section, the house and the house as a percentage of the section.
Possibly also "Recession Planes" or "Daylighting Standard"- these are lines drawn, usually at a boundary, to a set height (a bit like a fence top) and then slope in to the sight at 45 degrees. Their purpose is to make sure there are no over-bearing buildings right on a boundary. If you building is closer than the recession plane allows for, then you will probably also need "Resource Consent" (Often a quick and easy procedure - but occasionally, not.)
Both plans will need
Hand drawn drawings in Pen are permissible.
You do not to be licensed or registered to do your own site plans.
You will need the following information (as shown in the sample site plan) for your Proposed Site Plan: